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Correct pattern for welding tubing?

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  • CalRewireMatt
    started a topic Correct pattern for welding tubing?

    Correct pattern for welding tubing?

    Hey guys. Ive been struggling to get a good weld on tubing and have come here for help. I feel Im pretty proficient with straight welds such as welding box tubing or plate but when it comes to welding tube I end up with sub par results.

    I tend to use a zig zag or crecent type pattern but when I do it on a tube or round joint it ends up horrible. Ive come to the conclusion that what works for straight joints isnt neccessarily good for a fishmouth or any type of round filet.

    So my question is, What is a good pattern to use? Ive even considered just hitting the joint with a straight bead but when I do it tends to get a bit cattapillar like which Im not ok with either. Im want to be able to lay down a nice flat bead that is structurally sound, Ive got that down for the straight now I need it for tube.

    HELP!!

  • BoxCar
    replied
    Looks good glad it worked out for ya

    Leave a comment:


  • vin-man welding
    replied
    ok i got around to welding. this is the first joint i did and i ran a little hot.
    it's getting painted that's reason for grinding. 2" od, sch 10, pipe.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • BoxCar
    replied
    Hey there I have miged similar things with 0.35 wire and for me I use alittle bit more heat then I do on flat welds. For me I almost run the weld down hand with my gun pointed slightly up so that when I get down towards the bottom of the pipe(or the bottom ride) I can twist my wrist down to get around more of the tube to do it in less tries.

    Leave a comment:


  • aspeyrer
    replied
    500 dollar Shifter kart Steering wheel? I have been racing shifter karts for over 16 yrs, Shifter kart steering wheels cost at the most 125 dollars!

    Originally posted by CalRewireMatt View Post
    Thats why most reputable sanctioning bodies dont allow stick welded ANYTHING. Point being that MIG and TIG are much better for inspecting than a stick weld. Granted ask a pipe fitter why we are talking crap about mission critical welds done with a stick but its true. Most guys that dont even attempt to buy a CHEAP mig probably cant be trusted to make a decent stick weld.

    Metal fusion is secondary to the capabilty of an inspector to determine if the metal is truly fused.

    I just had a guy from the shop next to me ask if I could tig and fix a 500 dollar steering wheel from a shifter kart that broke at a spoke. I told him to chuck it cause it was beyond saving without stripping the leather off off the wheel, grind every weld and do it over. He understood when I said that the metal should have failed NOT the weld.

    Point being made is that in motorsports, peoples lives are at risk. Granted certain poorer areas of the country may turn a blind eye to weld quality in my parts you dont get by with buzz box welds and I dont think Id be ok with it even if they did.

    Demolition derbys aka hobby stock can do what they want. Im planning on taking turns at over 130mph, I hope that I as well as everyone else next to me consider the quality of chassis construction as important as I do.

    Leave a comment:


  • davinci2010
    replied
    Originally posted by TWODOGS58 View Post
    Hi guys new to the forums -greetings to all. A concept i had hard time getting my head around was explained to me in a miller service course. You push mig because if you drag the slightly cooled weld acts like an insulator and you are just adding to the top of the weld not fusing to the base metal. Think about it. They taught "if its got slag you drag". So for tig or solid mig pushing gives the best result.
    Pushing also keeps your shielding gas in the area ahead of the weld as well as the weld itself. This is where your shield is most needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • vin-man welding
    replied
    Originally posted by TWODOGS58 View Post
    Hi guys new to the forums -greetings to all. A concept i had hard time getting my head around was explained to me in a miller service course. You push mig because if you drag the slightly cooled weld acts like an insulator and you are just adding to the top of the weld not fusing to the base metal. Think about it. They taught "if its got slag you drag". So for tig or solid mig pushing gives the best result.
    but you're not draging if you're doing vert. up. or would that be still moving away from the slag?

    Leave a comment:


  • vin-man welding
    replied
    Originally posted by STRENGTH AND POWER View Post
    I'd be interested in seeing < 2" MIG action
    sorry i havn't been on in awail. and i'll take a pipe mig picture for you. i have a pipe fix i need to do this weekend.

    Leave a comment:


  • TWODOGS58
    replied
    Heat as an insulator

    Hi guys new to the forums -greetings to all. A concept i had hard time getting my head around was explained to me in a miller service course. You push mig because if you drag the slightly cooled weld acts like an insulator and you are just adding to the top of the weld not fusing to the base metal. Think about it. They taught "if its got slag you drag". So for tig or solid mig pushing gives the best result.

    Leave a comment:


  • CalRewireMatt
    replied
    Originally posted by Vegas Racer View Post
    You big boys don't but some of the local hobby stock or dirt track guys do. I just gutted the cage from an entry level NWAAS car that was booger welded with a little buzz box. And it had passed tech at all the tracks in the area. Scary dangerous.
    Thats why most reputable sanctioning bodies dont allow stick welded ANYTHING. Point being that MIG and TIG are much better for inspecting than a stick weld. Granted ask a pipe fitter why we are talking crap about mission critical welds done with a stick but its true. Most guys that dont even attempt to buy a CHEAP mig probably cant be trusted to make a decent stick weld.

    Metal fusion is secondary to the capabilty of an inspector to determine if the metal is truly fused.

    I just had a guy from the shop next to me ask if I could tig and fix a 500 dollar steering wheel from a shifter kart that broke at a spoke. I told him to chuck it cause it was beyond saving without stripping the leather off off the wheel, grind every weld and do it over. He understood when I said that the metal should have failed NOT the weld.

    Point being made is that in motorsports, peoples lives are at risk. Granted certain poorer areas of the country may turn a blind eye to weld quality in my parts you dont get by with buzz box welds and I dont think Id be ok with it even if they did.

    Demolition derbys aka hobby stock can do what they want. Im planning on taking turns at over 130mph, I hope that I as well as everyone else next to me consider the quality of chassis construction as important as I do.
    Last edited by CalRewireMatt; 05-14-2010, 11:50 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Vegas Racer
    replied
    Originally posted by cupfab View Post
    You simply don't use stick welding in motorsports....it's just not done.
    You big boys don't but some of the local hobby stock or dirt track guys do. I just gutted the cage from an entry level NWAAS car that was booger welded with a little buzz box. And it had passed tech at all the tracks in the area. Scary dangerous.

    Leave a comment:


  • Scott Hightower
    replied
    Roll Cage Welding

    I welded a ton of roll cages for stock cars over the years, 1 3/4 round .088 for
    the main cage and .065 for some non-safety peripheral items.

    The key is to have a good fit. You can buy or build a notcher. We built our own.

    While .030 sounds like the right choice for wire, I have had great results with .035. Pull or push with an in and out pattern, no need to weave just turn the heat up a notch. Knock on wood, (or steel) I have never broken a weld and of course have had my share of wrecks.

    Scott
    http://www.welders360.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • stock lx
    replied
    they are trying to make the track safer by not allowing anyone with a 150 dollar buzz box from building a car that will pass cert...although i snuck through the cracks because i cant weld for crap but i do have a mig and a tig...

    Leave a comment:


  • Jim-TX
    replied
    Thanks for the explanation. I understand now.

    It's still seems a little ironic that for a lot of non motorsports applications stick is preferred by many where penetration and strength are critical.

    Leave a comment:


  • cupfab
    replied
    TIG or MIG only.

    Originally posted by Jim-TX View Post
    For use where??????????? Whoever made that rule must know nothing about welding if they are referring to strength. That's an absurd statement. (not meaning you)
    You simply don't use stick welding in motorsports....it's just not done.

    Leave a comment:

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