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    I screwed up, but luckily not on a weld. I undermixed the hardner in some body filler, 2nd pass, and now have a mess. I scraped up what I could, but don't want to put down another coat until I'm sure it's all off, don't want to end up with uncured filler under my paint. Sanding resulted in a bigger mess.
    What can remove the uncured filler?
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  • #2
    clean off uncured filler

    Acetone maybe?
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    • #3
      Unless you really went low, the stuff should eventually cure. Some of the fiberglass surface curing agents might work too. The filler you used was polyester right?
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      • #4
        A Stanley shur-form file or as some call them a micro plane should get it off, of course you'll get some of the first coat as well but you'll be sure to get it all off. Most of the time though if it's just a little bit the next coat if mixed properly will cure what little remains. You can also use the surface hardner for fiberglass as mentioned before.
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        • #5
          Originally posted by Fishy Jim View Post
          Unless you really went low, the stuff should eventually cure. Some of the fiberglass surface curing agents might work too. The filler you used was polyester right?
          It's been on there for 2 days, still soft. Yes, polyester, Marstons

          Originally posted by TerryL View Post
          Acetone maybe?
          I'll try that

          Originally posted by Blondie_486 View Post
          A Stanley shur-form file or as some call them a micro plane should get it off, of course you'll get some of the first coat as well but you'll be sure to get it all off. Most of the time though if it's just a little bit the next coat if mixed properly will cure what little remains. You can also use the surface hardner for fiberglass as mentioned before.
          Not enough on there for a surform file, total thickness is less than 1/16".
          Miller Syncrowave 200
          Homemade Water Cooler
          130XP MIG
          Spectrum 375
          60 year old Logan Lathe
          Select Machine and Tool Mill
          More stuff than I can keep track of..

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          • #6
            1/16" is pretty thin. Try the surface hardener and maybe a little heat from a hair dryer or heat gun (just don't go too crazy).
            Syncrowave 250DX
            Invison 354MP
            XR Control and 30A

            Airco MED20 feeder
            Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
            Smith O/A rig
            And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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            • #7
              When using any filler keep it as thin as possible 1/8 inch thick max.
              If you need more than that your metal work underneath is not good enough .
              Work your metal out closer to the shape you need.

              But back to your ?
              Lacquer thinner or acetone will remove it.
              I prefer lacquer thinner not as bad a acetone.
              After its scraped with a cheese greater
              Make sure all the chemical has out gased before appling your next coat or you will get solvent poping under your primer
              Rich
              Last edited by Fortyfords; 11-13-2009, 01:33 AM.
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              • #8
                Originally posted by Fortyfords View Post
                If you need more than that your metal work underneath is not good enough .
                Work your metal out closer to the shape you need.

                Rich

                The only bondo work I've ever done was grafting on plastic parts to metal ones. 1/4" and thicker in some cases - never had cracks even in the dead of winter.

                It's not always about pounding tin.
                Syncrowave 250DX
                Invison 354MP
                XR Control and 30A

                Airco MED20 feeder
                Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                Smith O/A rig
                And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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                • #9
                  After you clean the bulk of it off with laquer thinner,dont forget to rescuff the area you are applying it to with 80 grit, the scratchesleft behind is where the bondo gets its adhesion. BTW most body fillers cure much better at 60 degrees F and above.Mike

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