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Need some advice TIG welding patch panels

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  • #16
    Originally posted by QuazI View Post
    could try using a heat sink if at all possible....worked wonders for any thin stuff I've ever done!!!!
    That's one of the coolest thing I've ever heard.

    any pics of the type of heat sink?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by KarateBoy View Post
      That's one of the coolest thing I've ever heard.

      any pics of the type of heat sink?
      I use a big hunk of aluminum (2x4x6) and keep it in the freezer.
      Miller Syncrowave 200
      Homemade Water Cooler
      130XP MIG
      Spectrum 375
      60 year old Logan Lathe
      Select Machine and Tool Mill
      More stuff than I can keep track of..

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      • #18
        Originally posted by KarateBoy View Post
        That's one of the coolest thing I've ever heard.

        any pics of the type of heat sink?
        Get about a 8-12" piece of 1" copper pipe from the hardware store, and flatten out about half of it. Then put about a 45 deg. angle on it. You can get fancy with a handle, or just wrap some electrical tape on it. You can make others with different sizes if needed.
        Dynasty 200 DX runner
        Sync 350 LX
        XMT 300 w/D74 and roughnecks
        Hobart 135
        ESAB PowerCut 875 plasma

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        • #19
          Dull abrasives will create lots of heat while grinding. You can't use a grinding disk until it's worn completely down while doing body work. You have to keep putting fresh disks on or else you'll end up heating the panel up and warping it.

          Backstitch or backstep welding will also help to keep panel distortion down. Just imagine if you had to weld a new quarter panel on an Econoline van with an oxy acetelyne torch!! It's been done before.

          Hope this helps a bit.
          Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

          Colt the original point & click interface!

          Millermatic 35 with spot panel
          Miller 340A/BP
          Victor O/A torches
          Lincoln SP125
          Too many other tools to list

          03 Ram 1500
          78 GS1000
          82 GL1100 Interstate

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          • #20
            If the hardness of your MIG welds is a factor making grinding them down tedious, try .023 ESAB Easy Grind (available in 11 lb rolls and larger). It makes for softer and more malleable beads.

            If you keep your hammer/dolly work confined to just the weld, you can get the surrounding metal to return to it's original shape. When shrinkage occurs, it's just the weld puddle itself getting smaller, not the parent material.
            Miller XMT-350 CC/CV
            Miller S-22A wirefeeder
            Bernard 400A "Q" gun
            Miller 30-A Spoolmatic w/WC-24
            CK 210 & WP-18 GTAW torches
            Hypertherm Powermax 30
            O/A Rig, Enco 4x6 bandsaw, etc.

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            • #21
              Do you start dollying the bead asap?

              Ex: Spot weld, quickly dolly, let cool slowly, go to another area of the panel and repeat. Keep repeating entire seam is filled with spot welds.. right?

              I like the cut off wheel trick on a die grinder. Works great for removing spot welds as well.

              Thanks for your time
              http://www.dkGoodrich.com
              EFI Tuning Solutions
              106lb/min 11k RPM 1.8l

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              • #22
                I use 3M 2" discs on my die grinder, I don't remember what they are made of but they are designed to run cooler you can even grind with them wet, which really helps preventing heat build up.
                Miller Syncrowave 200
                Homemade Water Cooler
                130XP MIG
                Spectrum 375
                60 year old Logan Lathe
                Select Machine and Tool Mill
                More stuff than I can keep track of..

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                • #23
                  what about using reverse polarity? wouldn't that put less heat into the sheet metal?

                  Thnaks

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                  • #24
                    Need some advice TIG welding patch panels

                    on thin stuff like that ... i always use tig (pulse)
                    depending on how good you are with the tig pulse is the way to go.... if you dont have a fancy machine .... use the pedal as a pulse.... this is easily done that way too!! not big fan of buttons or switches ... but either pulse or use your pedal! its basically doing several tacks as you travel!! back step your welds also... and if you see a small gap on your travel ... keep pulsing using "lay- wire technique" ... hope you know what i mean ... otherwise i think i would stick with mig in that case!!!
                    enjoy

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