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Get about a 8-12" piece of 1" copper pipe from the hardware store, and flatten out about half of it. Then put about a 45 deg. angle on it. You can get fancy with a handle, or just wrap some electrical tape on it. You can make others with different sizes if needed.
Dull abrasives will create lots of heat while grinding. You can't use a grinding disk until it's worn completely down while doing body work. You have to keep putting fresh disks on or else you'll end up heating the panel up and warping it.
Backstitch or backstep welding will also help to keep panel distortion down. Just imagine if you had to weld a new quarter panel on an Econoline van with an oxy acetelyne torch!! It's been done before.
Hope this helps a bit.
Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)
Colt the original point & click interface!
Millermatic 35 with spot panel
Victor O/A torches
Too many other tools to list
If the hardness of your MIG welds is a factor making grinding them down tedious, try .023 ESAB Easy Grind (available in 11 lb rolls and larger). It makes for softer and more malleable beads.
If you keep your hammer/dolly work confined to just the weld, you can get the surrounding metal to return to it's original shape. When shrinkage occurs, it's just the weld puddle itself getting smaller, not the parent material.
Miller XMT-350 CC/CV
Miller S-22A wirefeeder
Bernard 400A "Q" gun
Miller 30-A Spoolmatic w/WC-24
CK 210 & WP-18 GTAW torches
Hypertherm Powermax 30
O/A Rig, Enco 4x6 bandsaw, etc.
on thin stuff like that ... i always use tig (pulse)
depending on how good you are with the tig pulse is the way to go.... if you dont have a fancy machine .... use the pedal as a pulse.... this is easily done that way too!! not big fan of buttons or switches ... but either pulse or use your pedal! its basically doing several tacks as you travel!! back step your welds also... and if you see a small gap on your travel ... keep pulsing using "lay- wire technique" ... hope you know what i mean ... otherwise i think i would stick with mig in that case!!!