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need help with hack shaft nut ??

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  • need help with hack shaft nut ??

    i cant seem to get it to break loose. any one know if its reverse threaded ?? i tried both direction with no luck. after dinner i intend to put the wheel back on, take another shot at it with the breaker bar and cheater pole. but would really like to know I'm forcing it in the right direction.

    thanks for the help

  • #2
    Normally right hand thread, but there are some wierd things I have not seen.

    Also they are loctite held so, put some heat on it before you put the wrench on it. Do not over heat it, just enough to swell the nut and not the shaft it is held to.

    Peace,
    Paul

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    • #3
      thanks, i'll put the map gas to it and give it another try.

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      • #4
        well so far the nut is wining.
        I'll break out the torches later today after the wife takes her drivers license road test. its about time she gets around to getting her license.

        i have to wonder why there is no grease fitting on this thing to get some grease in the bearings ?? the u-joints inside the boots get no grease due to location, but you would think the wheel bearing would have a grease fitting ??

        at a little over 200,000 mil. i would like to grease it up a bit. thinking of taking off the boots to grease the u-joints in the hack shaft as well. but for the moment i just want to get to the wheel bearing. I'm a bit concerned about putting too much heat to it and causing damage to the bearings. any chance they have a rubber seal in them ??

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        • #5
          Hey Fun...What is a hack shaft?

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          • #6
            Half shaft!

            CV axle!

            James sometime if you can cut the band without cutting into the boot you can just push them off the the CV and fill the boot with grease but if you tear the boot you'll have to replace the boot.

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            • #7
              Most drive wheel bearings used now are sealed with no grease or zerk fittings needed. Most 1/2 shafty stub axels are torqued to 300 to 350 foot pounds or so. Warm up the nut and hit it with a good impact. righty tighty lefty loosy. a breaker bar and a cheater pipe works too. leave the wheel on if you can and set the parking brake or have the wife stand on the brake to hold the wheel.

              1/2 shafts have CV joints in them. An inner and outer race with 6 or so ball bearings. They last longer if you clean and repack them from time to time. Don't pack the joint and boot full. The weight of the grease when spun at highway speed will blow the boot out.
              Last edited by Vicegrip; 04-09-2009, 01:16 PM.

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              • #8
                Vicegrip..........I know we do not always click.....but you generally have very
                good imput.........thanks..........................Nick

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                • #9
                  seems like i saw some replacement bands for the boots, so with a little luck i will be ale to get it off without any damage. I'll give it another try tomorrow, I'm shot for the day now. but i did get some much needed shop cleaning done.

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                  • #10
                    This is gona sound dumb!!!
                    Is there a "locking" device on the nut?
                    Some have a grove cut in the shaft and the thin lip is bent into the grove.
                    The worst one I did had to use a 3/4 breaker bar and LONG (4') cheater.
                    When it came loose, it almost put me on the ground, I aint small 6'4" 230 lbs.
                    Get your cheater just right and put a jack under the end and raise the jack, that worked for me in the past. Make sure someone is on the cars brake.

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                    • #11
                      yes it has a bent over outer lip thing, took care of that already.

                      i have a 4' fence pole over my largest breaker bar now. my brother is comming out tomarow so i'll have him give me a hand.

                      i'll try the jack under the breaker bar idea if all else fails, man that puppie is on tight.

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                      • #12
                        Yes, those can be tight.. I think I had about a 5 foot cheater bar on the wrench, with 200lbs on the end when I got them out of a Taurus with 150K miles.. My brother broke two Craftsman 3/4 flex bars trying to break loose a similar nut on the rear end of a VW before he finally broke it loose..

                        On many FWD cars you change the front wheel bearings by replacing the hub and knuckle assembly once you get the half shaft out... The bearings are completely non serviceable.

                        I don't remember how many miles you said you have on this car, but if it has been over 100K since the CV joint boots were replaced, I'd suggest buying new boots, especially if you have the half shaft out of the vehicle.. Once the boot fails, if it the joint is not promptly cleaned, regreased, and covered with a new boot, the joints will fail really quickly.. At minimum, inspect the boot for any tears, and for consistent flexibility.

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                        • #13
                          I've got one of these for problem fasteners. I use a 5/8" ID rubber garden hose to feed it. It may say it uses less than 10 cfm, but there's no way!

                          http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95141

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                          • #14
                            the boots are good, no sign of ware. i would still like to get inside and check on the grease situation. first I'll work on the bearings, see if its serviceable or replaceable and take it from there. its some where over 200,000 Mi so cant hurt to check it out before it becomes a problem. this is the wifes car so i don't want a wheel falling off on her and the children.
                            well that is if she ever gets her license. ever get one of those instructors that just going to fail you regardless. this one was screaming at the wife telling her the home owner was going to come out and shoot her for pulling into there drive way. screaming hurry up and get out of there drive way and even reached for the shifter like she was going to take over , I'm surprised she didn't cause the wife to get in an accident. the wife is a way over cautious driver ( drives me nuts ) and she managed to lose 115 points on her test i did not know that was even possible??? there was no way the wife was going to pass with the instructor screaming at here every step of the way, should have slapped the **** out of her to get her to shut up. isn't she just supposed to tell you where to go and what to do, then just shut up and give you input at the end. next time we are bringing a recorder with us, why do we always think of this stuff after its needed.

                            any way I'll keep you all posted on the nut problem ( the one on the car not in it.)
                            tanks for the hints and tips.

                            Bodybagger,
                            i suspect that would do it, but as i almost never do this kind of thing a bit to high of an investment for me. heck the socket i had to get to do the job was $15, for 1 socket that I'll use maybe 3 times in my life right.LOL
                            but if ya got time swing by with yours and we will pop that bad boy on some air and see how she dose.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by fun4now View Post
                              i cant seem to get it to break loose. any one know if its reverse threaded ?? i tried both direction with no luck. after dinner i intend to put the wheel back on, take another shot at it with the breaker bar and cheater pole. but would really like to know I'm forcing it in the right direction.

                              thanks for the help
                              Fun4now.... it sounds like you are useing the wrong wrench. I think you need to go buy 2 or 3 of the right wrenches for the job.

                              Comment

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