View Full Version : Concrete stripping and painting (OT)
KLboxeR
01-01-2007, 08:31 PM
I'd like to submit a question to the collective.
I have a concrete basement floor that is 1/2 painted in a peeling, latex concrete paint and 1/2 stained from remenants of a tar paper like substance :confused: that had been used as a subfloor by the previous owner. I want to strip the paint and prep the stained area to accept an epoxy paint that will cover the whole floor.
Any recommendations for strippers? I've tried several mechanical means with poor results and I'd like to stay away from really noxious chemcals if possible (because it's in the basement and the house is closed up pretty tight for winter) The natural/ less harmful products seem like a crapshoot so I figured it was worth a check here before I waste a ton of money trying every concoction out there. Anyone have any luck with the less toxic products?
Any recommendations on the epoxy paint? Rustoleum and Sears have their products, but do they work?
Thanks for any insight,
Chris
imported_hotrodwillys
01-01-2007, 08:39 PM
The have a machine that grinds/sands cement floors they can be rented at a rent it center. We just did a garage floor and it came out beautiful, if the prep isn't right epoxy paint will peel.
image01
01-02-2007, 11:18 AM
I installed epoxy coating over the past year until my business was ready to go.
How big is this area you need to strip? Anytime you use a chemical stripper, you will have to pressure wash to get the reidue out of the concrete base. Can you pressure wash the area? I have stripped several garages with a latex coating with nothing but a PW. We also used an industrial floor poisher with a carbide brush, course sanding discs or scotch brite pads. If you need to get more aggressive, most larger rental centers will rent a Nebco surface grinding machine (or something comparable). You will still have to touch up around the edges with a diamond cup wheel on a hand grinder. The problem with this procedure is you WILL get grinding marks that will be visible after the epoxy is cured. If it will be a utility area, this may not be a problem for you. Around here there are a couple of companies that do nothing but surface stripping and have several types of machines at their disposal for any situation. We have had them use a shot blaster to strip epoxy before and it comes out real nice. You might want to check into that. They run about a $1.25 square foot for their service.
As far as what to use, we used a product from Veron. Very high quality but I think it's around $1.25 or so per square foot just for the product. It is a true 2 part epoxy done in 2 stages.
I've seen some of the Rustoleum product down but can't speak for it's longevity.
As was stated earlier, the surface prep will make or break any application. I would suggest you visit a paint supply instead of Sears, Home Depot or Lowe's and discuss your options with them.
Have fun;)
KLboxeR
01-02-2007, 07:02 PM
Thanks for the replies! I know this prep is going to be tough :(
Image,
Did you have any luck with the coarse pads on a buffer? I looked at that setup today and wasn't sure if it would work. They had black ones that seemed very coarse.
I also looked at the surface grinders, but the mess could be a problem. This is in my basement and the house is closed up fairly tight. I didn't want to be cleaning concrete dust for the next month or so. Pressure washing would be tough too as there's a ton of stuff I'd have to move out (I'd hoped to just slide it around to the areas I've already prepped, then slide it back).
I was thinking about trying the abrasive pad with a bit of water to knock the dust down, then mop and clean aferwards. Ever try this?
Thanks,
Chris
image01
01-04-2007, 09:27 PM
Sorry it took while to see this.
The abrasive pads on the floor machine work great but not in every situation. It really depends on what you are removing and how well the previous coating has bonded. If I had only one choice, I would probably go to the Ebco surface grinder with diamond inserts. It will take it down to bare concrete and works better with water than the abrasive pads. They don't like water too much, at least the ones we used didn't.
Like HRW said, PREP is the key for a long lasting coating. I know it a pain but it has to be clean and a shop vac and/or mopping is not going to cut it.
You might consider a trip to the local paint supply and get their advise on the products they sell. They are a little more money but HD,Lowes or Sears really don't have the expertise.
Doug Doty
01-05-2007, 06:44 PM
We have a place down the road a bit from here called " Racers " and all my buddies say they have the best lookin bunch of strippers they have ever seen or saw, I will make an effort to check the place out just for you. Ha Ha Ha.
I do have a production floor of about 20000 sq' and have paid dearly for an epoxy coating in the past that lasted no time at all, trashed in way less than a year. I had it re-done with a polyurethane and it is tough as nails an still nice several years later. " just my personal and expensive experiance. "
Doug...
Keegan
01-06-2007, 12:23 AM
I'd like to submit a question to the collective.
I have a concrete basement floor that is 1/2 painted in a peeling, latex concrete paint and 1/2 stained from remenants of a tar paper like substance :confused: that had been used as a subfloor by the previous owner. I want to strip the paint and prep the stained area to accept an epoxy paint that will cover the whole floor.
Any recommendations for strippers? I've tried several mechanical means with poor results and I'd like to stay away from really noxious chemcals if possible (because it's in the basement and the house is closed up pretty tight for winter) The natural/ less harmful products seem like a crapshoot so I figured it was worth a check here before I waste a ton of money trying every concoction out there. Anyone have any luck with the less toxic products?
Any recommendations on the epoxy paint? Rustoleum and Sears have their products, but do they work?
Thanks for any insight,
Chris
I have Epoxy coated several shop floors and basement as well as garage floors in space I built and occupied. I use Sherwin Williams TileClad 2-part Epoxy. First coat 10% reduced (after part A and B have been mixed/inducted) rolled on with a 20" +- wide roller and long handle. Within 24 hour follow up with a top coat.
A friend just did 1000 sq ft of new concrete floor (without sealer) and used a total of just under 8 Gallons of Product (4 + 4)
as in all coating applications - preparation is the key. I would be very reluctant to introduce a chemical stripper on a porous substrate like concrete. Mechanical removal (grinding, abrasive blasting, etc) is the way to go.
DUrability: no problem whatsoever with adhesion after 9 years in my garage and 11 years in the shop.
Usability: cleaning is an absolute snap. Epoxy is very slippery when wet. If this is a problem, us Urethane as the second coat. You won't wear it out.
Stay away from consumer outlets for this type of product.
Personal protection and fire hazard: Get and read the MSDS Material Safety Data sheet for each product. Pay a lot of attention when working in a place which cannot be readily ventilated and where source of possible ignition are present.
Once you've done it right, you'll never go back to anything less.
good luck
Keegan
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