Bandsaw blade help

[wendell]

Hi,
I was given a johnson horizontal band saw about a year ago. Lucky for me it can with blades. The blades were 11'6x 3/4x 0.032x 6 teeth raker. The boxes didn't have brands on them but they were white w/ blue plaid. I've noticed some swatches of blue plaid on the Lenox site so that's my guys.

Like all band saw blades, they cut great untill something goes wrong (material shifts, trying to cut tubing that's too thin...). Well enough things have gone wrong and I'm out of blades.

I only cut mild steel that is usually between 3/16 and 1/2. I'm looking for a good replacement blade. I've literally been looking for a month and I haven't found any thing that said "this is the right blade for my aplication". Also, as I have a TIG a torch and a grinder, can I buy bulk blade stock and weld them my self? Any input would be appriciated. Thanks for your time.

[shadetreewelder]

I would suggest Lenox Rx+, Super or Classic in a 6/10 or 8/12 vari-pitch blade. Email me and I will let you know where I get mine. shopfloortalk at aol dot com.

[aametalmaster]

I get all my blades at http://www.countrysaw.com ...Bob

[kelly'$mygirl]

Buying blade stock and welding it will work, but you will have to get them heat treated, quenched, or whatever they do to treat them. I have welded a few myself without getting them treated and they just snap very early on. Good luck

[imported_hotrodwillys]

http://www.toolcenter.com/Lenox/index.html

[wendell]

thanks for the replies but as far as i can tell, neither toolcenter or countrysaw offer a 3/4x 0.032 blade for my application. Ron I send you an email.

Does anyone have info on welding blades. Ideally I'd like to buy bulk stock and weld the mup my self.

[barnett64]

Are you sure that they are .032? 11'-6" x .035 is a very popular size. You should be able to open up the guides and switch to .035 i would think

Also most places that sharpen saw blades will make bandsaw blade for you

Bruce

[wendell]

bruce,
The saw is presently set up for a 0.032 inch blade. While I know the 0.035 is much more popular, I'd perfer not to mess with the guides. The machine tracks perfectly and I'd hate to screw it up.

[burninbriar]

If you do go with the thicker blade you should only have to move the outside guide and that should not affect the tracking at all. Keep in mind that by useing an obscure blade you will likely always have trouble getting it even if you find someone with one now.

[imported_hotrodwillys]

Wendell if you call toolcenter they have more than what is on the web page:D

[Bulldog]

I buy all my blades for our Johnson and Turn Pro saws from Enco.com. I only use Bi metal blades.
Bulldog

[tooldude56]

bruce,
The saw is presently set up for a 0.032 inch blade. While I know the 0.035 is much more popular, I'd perfer not to mess with the guides. The machine tracks perfectly and I'd hate to screw it up.

The .032 blade are usually only avaliable in carbon blades.If you want to go to a high quality blade from any of the major manufacturers.they are going to be .035.Your saw has 2-sets of roller guides and 1 guide post on each set is cammed and is adjustable.This is about a 5 minute job to adjust and will not change the tracking,at all.You wont be happy with the .032 carbon blades.I use nothing,but a high speed matrix blade, on all of my band saws,like the 6/10 or 8/12 configuration.I dont like to change blade every couple of days,so i went with the bi-metal high speed blade and only change blades every couple of months now.

tooldude56

[precisionworks]

The saw is presently set up for a 0.032 inch blade. While I know the 0.035 is much more popular, I'd perfer not to mess with the guides.

Wendell -- Surely you're kidding. Most bandsaws (including mine) have WAAAAY more than .003" clearance between guides and blade.

Your saw will never know the difference:D

[wendell]

Good info. I know I need a bi metal blade but with in that class there are a TON of different types. I've got a request for a quote in on the Lenox RX+. That should do it.
Next project is to get the right blade and speed going for my '47 Delta 14" vertical saw. But one thing at a time.

precision,
The the roller bearings in the guides are VERY tight and I was hesitant to start messing with them. If I was kididng I'd have used one of those dopey smiling icons.:confused: (I don't even know what this expression is supposed to be expressing)

[burninbriar]

If you have two guide rollers, one on either side of the blade, leave the one on the inside alone, that relationship to the drive wheels will never change no matter how thick the blade is. Only the outside roller needs adjusted, and if you are running that tight of a clearance then you should loosen the outside roller and readjust even if you do find the same blade, other wise you may end up with tight spots that can lead to premature failure of the guide and blade.

[wendell]

Pete,
Thanks for the advice. I'll make sure to keep the inner guide stationary. Based on the credetials ofthe previous owner (fabbed for Curtis Craft in the 50-60s, chassis raced at Indy...) I think it's set up right. The key word is "think". While I'm comfortable messing with most equipment, I'm taking my time with this saw because it cuts so well now and I've seen too many saws that don't cut well.

How tight should the guides be on the blade? Right now they are tight (floss the blade between the guides w/ zero clearance.

[burninbriar]

How tight should the guides be on the blade? Right now they are tight (floss the blade between the guides w/ zero clearance.
I really have no idea what youre machine calls for , but if you are confident the last blade was installed correctly, since its a zero tollerance, I would loosen the outside rollers, install the blade and retight en the rollers to a zero tollerance again checking constantly to make sure it doesnt bind. There will most likely be some veriance in thickness, especially at the weld. I would not make the rollers tight, just take the slack out at the tightest piont.

[burninbriar]

One more thing , you might have to adjust the tracking with the new blade, this is usually done by pitching the angle on one of the drive wheels. Make sure the teeth of the blade are not in the guide rollers. some times the rollers are adjustable for various blade widths.Try to post a picture of it if you can.