message for engloid

[dandimand]

I was looking at the inside of your pipe root on your website I have a few questions for you . Im doing some 1.25" sched 40 pipe and i noticed your root looks quite smooth as opposed to a dabbing with a ripple effect which im getting at moment . I was just wondering your prep and how what process your doing to obtain a smooth root and are you also using a back gas . Im using a back gas Im using a 30 deg angle at moment with a 1/16 land and 3/32 root . Your thoughts appreciated thanks.

[Engloid]

I was looking at the inside of your pipe root on your website I have a few questions for you . Im doing some 1.25" sched 40 pipe and i noticed your root looks quite smooth as opposed to a dabbing with a ripple effect which im getting at moment . I was just wondering your prep and how what process your doing to obtain a smooth root and are you also using a back gas . Im using a back gas Im using a 30 deg angle at moment with a 1/16 land and 3/32 root . Your thoughts appreciated thanks.

I don't put any landing on the pipe, and walk the cup on the root. I used 1/8" filler with 3/32-1/8" gap. I try to make sure that the wire doesn't fall through at any point, but I want the gap to be close to it.

I remember this weld well, as I hadn't done any carbon steel pipe in some time, and was surprised that it turned out so well. I ran pretty hot on the root, at 231 amps. I remembered that number because it is the size of an engine I had once. Since I had that much heat, I moved pretty fast, and fed in wire. I probably used 3-4 full sticks of tig wire on that root.

No backpurge was used and I didn't dab the wire at all. It was a steady feed into the puddle.

That said, since you're doing much smaller pipe, (the pic I had was 6"), I'd do it a bit differently. I'd still go with no land, but would use a 3/32" wire and gap. You won't have to worry much about getting penetration on this smaller pipe, and suckback will likely be the problem to contend with. If you get suckback, either turn the heat down or go faster.

The angle can vary a bit, and be used to control heat and penetration. You can use the prep angle just as you do a land, to help control the heat, epecially.

[dandimand]

thanks for your info the problem i was haveing was as you stated suck back . ps have you ever tried pulsing your root in ? if so what setting would you reccomend as i would just rather try to walk the rod in on root rather than keyholeing and dabbing ps its on a 6 g all uphill .

[Engloid]

thanks for your info the problem i was haveing was as you stated suck back . ps have you ever tried pulsing your root in ? if so what setting would you reccomend as i would just rather try to walk the rod in on root rather than keyholeing and dabbing ps its on a 6 g all uphill .
For suckback, try going with less heat or faster travel. If that doesn't solve it, try more bevel and less heat. One or the other should solve the problem with some practice. Also keep in mind that if you're welding to some code, many codes will allow suckback within some limits.

I wouldn't bother with pulsing the root unless it was done with the same other things that I posted before...and in that case, the pulse would only be for a bump of amperage to make a ripple. IF I were to do that, I'd start out with something like:
1.5pps
70-80% background
70-80% peak time

Of course I'd tinker with it a bit from that point though.