Downsides in cap sizes ?

[90blackcrx]

Is there really a downside ?

I would think smaller would be easier to work with. Just curious

Talking about back caps not hats :)

[Bob Sigmon]

The smaller back caps require you to cut the tungstens into smaller pieces. The med back cap requires 2" and flat backcap requires 1.5". So with either one you loose 1" of useable tungsten plus more small stubs that you've ground down with use and won't stick out enough to be used.

I use the long backcaps for most but the smaller backcaps for tight spots are terrific.

[90blackcrx]

I see, ok thanks a lot Bob

[Engloid]

I hate sharpening short pieces of tungsten. Therefore, I use long back caps.

[KB Fabrications]

I hate sharpening short pieces of tungsten. Therefore, I use long back caps.
What do you do if you have to get into a spot where that long back cap will not fit?

[Sundown]

I just cut them in half when I get them and sharpen both ends then use a mid length cap unless I can't get the torch in, then it's a button and a shorter peice from the short peice box. :D

[Fishy Jim]

Why not use the tungsten with the long cap till it wears down to within the medium range, then save it for use with that. Then when it wears down to the small range, do the same. I would only cut a full length tungsten if I needed a short piece right away. I threw out a couple that would still be great for the new water cooled torch with a button cap.

[Sundown]

Don't know why, not logical, just the way I like to do it :D

[T_Bone]

I just score my sticks in the center with a grinder then break into then sharpen both ends. This fits a #17 torch with a #7 cermanic cup with using a stub endcap.

I've been using a stub endcaps for 40yrs as I never did like the long endcaps as they always got in my way. :eek:

[dandimand]

I agree with tbone on that one and pretty much do the same thing cept mine are done in three pieces .

[Laiky]

i prefer the short caps too. If i'm doing something on a bench that is flat or just practicing on some stock i use the long ones. I have some prepared shorties for real work or tight stuff, I can't explain why but i seem to weld better with the short cap. Short pieces just cost a little more, so when i can i use a long one. i also like to sharpen all my tungstens at 1 time and on both ends so i spend as little welding time grinding as possible.

[rpm]

I hate sharpening short pieces of tungsten. Therefore, I use long back caps.

I use a pin vise to sharpen short pieces.

[KB Fabrications]

I use a pin vise to sharpen short pieces.
Ditto on that. ;)

[T_Bone]

I just score my sticks in the center with a grinder then break into then sharpen both ends. This fits a #17 torch with a #7 cermanic cup with using a stub endcap.

I've been using a stub endcaps for 40yrs as I never did like the long endcaps as they always got in my way. :eek:

Memory Trip :rolleyes:
I have to take that back as I do remeber a job as a young pup where I was working at Coors on SS fermint tanks. These fermint tanks were 14ft wide x 44ft long x 10ft high and my job was to seal weld the rib seams on the front panel. They had a 14ga 4" x 8 stiffener rib with a 3/4" lip that was spot welded to the flat sheets. They wanted that lip, seal welded to the skin.

There I would use a #17 toruch and a #7 cermanic cup with a long end cap, and put the long stem between my fore finger and middle finger, turn the amps up and run down hill to the bottom.

I got to where I could run those seams in any color I wanted. If you have your heat set correct for the amount of travel speed and lay your cup just right, then your finished weld will have colors on it.

Yellow the coldest weld, then gold, then reds, then purples, then dark blue, light blue, then white, then carbon burned. Using 100% Ar cover gas, using scratch start Tig, no pecker tracks nor sugar allowed as the front of the tanks were to be a show piece in the fermint house walk way.

:cool: