Dynasty 200

[HAWK]

I have read the Dynasty 200 - Poor Bead On Aluminum (http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=3832) several times. I use the Dynasty 200 and
300 for 95% of my GTAW applications. I have one each of these machines I use daily for myriad metal applications including aluminum. I want to pass on what I have learned by spending time with these machines over the past few years.

I have owned 2 D200DX units within a 2 year period. The first was sold due to a lack of mobile use since I had a D300DX in my shop. Eighteen months later I purchased another D200DX for mobile work on fire supression systems installation and repair. The second unit does happen to be one with a bad arc starter board. This is a minor repair and will fix the lack of high frequency starting on these units. As Andy mentioned there was a vendor issue with the arc starting PCB capacitor.

The poor aluminum bead appearance can be caused by many things. However, if a Syncrowave machine is yielding the type bead you are looking for and the Dynasty does not there is a reason for it. The Dynasty's very intense hard driving arc can cause filler rods with high silicon content to float the silicon to the bead surface. This is why 5356 filler typically produces a cleaner bead than does 4043, 4047, or 4145. The last three filler alloys are of high silicon content compared to the 5356. This "grainy" or "dirty" bead appearance is amplified with lower quality fillers. Crown alloys and Alcotec are premium fillers that I use and have found to produce little if any silicon grain on the bead surface.

A good base metal cleaning with an aluminum etching compound like Protek Alumi-Clean is helpful in eliminating "dirty" beads. Lightly rubbing the filler rod with 3M Scotchbrite followed by an acetone wipe will complete the cleaning process prior to welding. A properly sharpened ceriated or lanthanated alloy tungsten is the key to a good AC weld with the Dynasty inverters. I have found that with clean 4043 filler rod and correctly etched base metal premium quality shiny beads with nice color match are achievable with practice.

A good starting point for a fillet weld is argon shielding gas at 17CFH, 68% EN balance, and 110HZ arc frequency. Set maximum machine amperage based on your material thickness . Check the weld bead perimeter for the white area showing the arc cleaning action. If this area is larger than 1/8", then adjust the EN balance up in 2% increments until the white area is close to the 1/8" width. If the bead begins to become prickly or the white perimeter disappears, lower the EN balance accordingly.

The Dynasty settings can be adjusted to simulate a typical Syncrowave arc if all else fails to produce the desired weld beads. A 65% EN balance with a 60HZ arc frequency is a good starting point.

If you are welding an alloy such as a 3000 series that allows for 1100 series filler, then do give it a try. You will be absolutely amazed with its appearance. However, don't use this filler unless it is a recommended filler alloy for the base metal or metals you are welding. It is 99% commercially pure aluminum.

The Dynasty start parameters can be adjusted to give a desired arc start for a particular application. The factory settings work well for 3/32" & 1/16" ceriated/lanthanated tungstens. These settings include start polarity, start amperage, and start amperage/polarity time. Should these parmaters become mal-adjusted for any reason a factory default will return the machine to its factory settings.

There are most certainly more details involved in welding with the Dynasty inverters. I hope this information is helpful in achieving the desired results. These machines are not Syncrowaves and not designed to weld like them. However, over time familiarity and experience with the Dynasty will prevail. The Dynasty series machines are among my favorite GTAW machines.

[clintonwelding1]

wow thats a big post. You sure do know a lot :eek:

[Bzyman]

Excellent post Hawk. If you have any pics to go along with this information it would be much appreciated. Can you explain the 1100 series filler a little more in detail. Is this readily available?

Paul

[HAWK]

Bzyman,


No pics this evening, but can get you some. The 1100 filler rod is nearly pure aluminum. It has a very shiny clean appearance. I use it on 3003 plate for color match rather than 4043. Since it does not have the Si content of 4043 or 4047 it does not flow as well, but does not take much getting used to. It is a bit more difficult to find than 4043 and 5356, but it readily available from most suppliers. I have some in 1/16" and 1/8" if you need a few pieces.

[Paul Seaman]

HAWK:
Reason for edit: Spelling? I am so ashamed, well maybe not.

Good post,

[HAWK]

Bzyman,

I found a couple of pictures. These are 3/8" fillets with 6061T-651 base metal etched with aluma clean and a stainless steel dedicated brush. The machine is a D300Dx with 225 amps max setting on the machine, foot pedal controlled, 110HZ arc frequency, AC, no pulse, 72% EN balance. The actual puddle was formed at 170 amps and the weld was made at 130 amps. The filler material is uncleaned 1/8" 4043.

[HAWK]

Bzyman,

On the other hand there are certain base materials that are so nasty there is not a lot that can be done. This picture is from a trash compacter lid with 1/4' 3003 base metal. This was done at 200 amps. 62% EN balance and 125HZ arc frequency. The shield gas was 75% helium/ 25% argon. This is a fillet weld showing a close up section of more than 120" of weld. The entire weldment is probably 40+ square feet of 1/4" 3003. The machine was a D200DX-quite a feat for such a small footprint machine!

This beads appearance has nothing to do with the machine. It is a very nasty base metal that has been in a trash compacter at a food salvage warehouse for some time. I just felt lucky to get the weld to lay in. The filler was 4043 and was pushed into the puddle as hard and fast as I could get it to flow. I never removed the filler from the puddle until the filler rod was exhausted.

[HAWK]

Bzyman,

In all these pictures the white cleaning area around the weld bead is highly visible. I hope these help. May I can get you some more examples next week. This week is full up with project deadlines, etc. Too much work.

[HAWK]

HAWK:
Reason for edit: Spelling? I am so ashamed, well maybe not.

Good post,

We all screw up every now and then P. BTW: Thanks! I really hate to see a good machine series take such a beating. I know there is an HF issue with some units, but these are excellent machines!

[Paul Seaman]

I agree, 100%

[joebass]

I also have to add that I have had the Dynasty 300DX for 3 plus years and have never had a problem. I regularly weld 3003, 6061, 6063, and 5052 alloys. I also use 4043 rod for most of my aluminum GTAW work.

[Bzyman]

Thank you Hawk,

In hindsight It is clear to me that local individual I sought help from simply do not know the ins and outs of this machine and advanced squarewave in general. My weld quality is improving and I think time will help. This is an excellent machine and I hope it serves me well from here out. I will post more pics as I progress.

Paul

[Louis]

I have owned 2 D200DX units within a 2 year period.

Ive owned my personal machine for over 2 years now. I did the research on the machine for over a year, went and met Andy at a trade show and watched him do his magic. I looked for a solid 6 months for my machine. I found it on ebay of all places!


First thing I did was weld 2 cans together! I wanted to see how this puppy really performed, and it was just awesome.

Did I mention We just purchased a second machine for the shop? :D


The poor aluminum bead appearance can be caused by many things. However, if a Syncrowave machine is yielding the type bead you are looking for and the Dynasty does not there is a reason for it. The Dynasty's very intense hard driving arc can cause filler rods with high silicon content to float the silicon to the bead surface. This is why 5356 filler typically produces a cleaner bead than does 4043, 4047, or 4145. The last three filler alloys are of high silicon content compared to the 5356. This "grainy" or "dirty" bead appearance is amplified with lower quality fillers. Crown alloys and Alcotec are premium fillers that I use and have found to produce little if any silicon grain on the bead surface.

It does take a special touch. On thinner materials with a LOT of heat, it will float the silicon and have the grainy appearance. I ONLY use 4043 for my work. In the past 12 years, its all I've used.


A good base metal cleaning with an aluminum etching compound like Protek Alumi-Clean is helpful in eliminating "dirty" beads. Lightly rubbing the filler rod with 3M Scotchbrite followed by an acetone wipe will complete the cleaning process prior to welding.

This is key. Some of my 4043 filler has been around for a year or so. Technically, it has a good useful lifespan of 6 months. I simply scotchbrite it, alcohol it, and its much better. Remember, getting the cleaning action to work on the actual rod itself is tough, because its always being used, and never that close to the bead unless its being used! Poor prep and contamination will lead to dirty welds.

Just start the arc, and let it clean for a moment while it gets everything up to temp. Simple trick that works well :)



There are most certainly more details involved in welding with the Dynasty inverters. I hope this information is helpful in achieving the desired results. These machines are not Syncrowaves and not designed to weld like them. However, over time familiarity and experience with the Dynasty will prevail. The Dynasty series machines are among my favorite GTAW machines.

I couldnt agree more. It takes more work, and more time to weld the same thing with the Syncrowave. Its almost effortless with the Dynasty. There is just nothing like it. :cool:


Louis

[jimbloomfield]

Great Info from Hawk.
I just moved up to a Dynasty 200DX from a SD 180.
Is there something like the Welding Calculator.That would have the starting points for the Dynasty settings?Info like Hawk suggest in ajusting the EN balance is great for the weekend welder like myself.
I am still in the dark on what some of the settings are for and how adjusting them changes the weld.

[lramberson]

Well we will see if the punishment party continues. :eek:
After reading and touching in on the poor beads thread, I was pretty discourged with were it had gone & just sat back and took the punishment. :(
Being on the road and only at home for 12 hrs. I had to see if was blessed or cursed and fired up the DX for a abuse session little would put the unit through, I had also spoken to Hawk on this matter & we both concured on the technique and sequence of testing and perameters, by the way have I ever let you guys know he is pretty up on his knowlage and has little simpathy for the weak :D, thats another story.

My unit performed to my level of talent and produced acceptable welds. HF starts were crisp, with no false starts. This unit is a scalpule in the right hands.

I believe Hawk is correct in the area of the DX being a very advanced unit & taking a lot of practice to master. Some people should not be allowed to purchase high performance vechicles also, but they still do and it is the vechicle that suffers when the under estimating operator wipes out. Each operator of this unit needs a learning curve when starting out especially me, but I have perfected my technique & also received some one on one with one of the most talented tig weldors in the LOWER 48, and he fixed me in less than an hour.


I will post a photo of material welded without any preparation or cleaning that was executed last week and now sits on my desk at work as an example of perfection for me to work toward. No hidded tricks, no special settings, no scotch brite cleaner, alcohol, of aluma prep. Just two coupons of scrap and a fresh 4043 stick.

The Dali Lama of welding did this and then looked at me and said, oh my hand speed was a little off here, you try. I did and let me tell you my output, hand technique, bead profile, haze area were all much improved.
It is a lot to learn & master but I am becomming better and my hours on aluminium are on the increase :D

[jeffscarstrucks]

Great post Hawk, a good refresher for those of us who have owned one for a while too. I think that todays "now" way of thinking allows some people to forget that some crafts still have to be learned;practiced and used every day. I doesn't matter what trade you are in...nobody is born knowing how to be great. I don't want the lack of preparation by some to be used as an excuse to bash any tool for a scape goat. I really believe that TIG is more of an art form that happens to have a practical application! :cool:

Thanks, JEFF

[Protraxrptr17]

Great info. I posted a topic asking what was causing the grains a couple months back and just got the same ol' "turn up the balance" and "bad gas" song and dance. Nobody said anything about silicone content or any REASON for the bad appearance. I never bashed the Dynasty series, but I knew there had to be connection because all these Dynasty owners were complaining of the same problem.

I ask again, can the HF start problem affect the grainy apprearance in any way? The starting problem with mine gets worse every day. It even does it at lower amperages now. I have been putting off sending it in because I now depend on this machine to make a living.

[Springbox]

Great post Hawk & others - thanks for going to the (considerable) trouble.

We have had our 300 DX for just over a year now and it is a great machine. However, we have noticed that increasingly the HF start seems to have become rather weaker.

When we first got the machine, we used to be reminded with a real belt from the HF if we had forgotten the earth clamp but cannot remember the last time that happened (maybe we are just being more careful). We have not changed the factory start parameters.

Also on DC at lowish amps, whilst the HF start is normally good, we do sometimes have a non start (no HF and no arc) and have to scratch the workpiece with the tungsten and press the pedal again before it will reignite. Once the arc re-initiates, it is perfect. We had originally put it down to either a not perfect earth or slighly contaminated tungsten but reading all the above posts - is this normal?

I appreciate that the last thing Miller wants is an unneccary warranty recall but if there is a problem - lets get it sorted!


Any thoughts?


SpringBox in the UK

[HAWK]

Springbox,

It is probably not the machine. You mentioned low amps being the area of poor arc initiation. Take a look at your owners manual on how to change start parameters. You can program and lock in 2 start paramters per each of the 4 programs: one DC set up and one AC set up per program gives a total of 8 different start up settings. The manual will give you the default settings. By increasing the start amperage and.or time you will strengthen the arc start. The start polarity is also changeable between EP to EN. If you go overboard with these changes you only risk burning down the tungsten and blowing holes in thinner material.

Since there are 4 DC and 4 AC programs you can customize each one to start for a specific material and application. I have my D300DX set up for soft, medium, and hard starts on AC. On DC I have these settings tailored to the tungsten size. Factory defaults are most likey for typically 3/32" tungsten applications. Once programed here any other parmaters such as max amperage setting, pulse settings, EN balance, arc frequency, etc will remain in that program until you manually change it.

Another option could simply be your tungsten is frosted on the tip and scratching it before using the HF to start the arc may be the cure.

There is factory default set up to return all these settings to the factory values automatically. It is listed in the same section of the manual.

I hope this helps. It is not as confusing as it sounds.

[HAWK]

Great info. I posted a topic asking what was causing the grains a couple months back and just got the same ol' "turn up the balance" and "bad gas" song and dance. Nobody said anything about silicone content or any REASON for the bad appearance. I never bashed the Dynasty series, but I knew there had to be connection because all these Dynasty owners were complaining of the same problem.

I ask again, can the HF start problem affect the grainy apprearance in any way? The starting problem with mine gets worse every day. It even does it at lower amperages now. I have been putting off sending it in because I now depend on this machine to make a living.

Protraxrptr17,

The HF should not be directly affecting the bead. Once the arc is started it should behave normally. Take a look at my reply to Springbox on setting and or defaulting the start parmaters. Sometimes these values get changed by accident without the operator even realizing he/she did it. Not likely-but possible. Let me know.

[HAWK]

LOUIS,

Thanks for posting on this thread too! Very nice post!

[precisionworks]

A Sync 350 is a terrible machine to learn on <LOL> Plenty of power for most any job, etc. Then I bought my own machine, an HTP Invertig 201. What a difference!

For aluminum, any thickness from .010 and above, I use 75 He / 25 Ar. That mix allows the 200 Class machines to weld faster and allows work on thicker materials. The thinnest material welded is air :D , which means this is used for hole-filling & gap filling.

On clean material, around 80% to 85% works as a starting point for balance. If cleaning is inadequate, it's easy to lower that number by 3% or 4% and try again. Tungsten point life is long at the high percentages, shorter as the percentage gets lower.

The Invertig 201 has 200Hz top frequency, and this is a good choice for thin material or where a small HAZ is desired. The 20Hz low freq is great for large-mass, thick parts (plus preheat from the rosebud :D )

Hard to beat these little 65# boxes!

[Scott V]

Hard to beat these little 65# boxes!


I figure in the #63 pound class I want at least 250 amps 60% dutycyle. :p
http://www.thermadyne.com/uplFiles/litLibrary/thermalarc%5C84_2021_18.pdf

[KB Fabrications]

I have read the Dynasty 200 - Poor Bead On Aluminum (http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=3832) several times. I use the Dynasty 200 and
300 for 95% of my GTAW applications. I have one each of these machines I use daily for myriad metal applications including aluminum. I want to pass on what I have learned by spending time with these machines over the past few years.

I have owned 2 D200DX units within a 2 year period. The first was sold due to a lack of mobile use since I had a D300DX in my shop. Eighteen months later I purchased another D200DX for mobile work on fire supression systems installation and repair. The second unit does happen to be one with a bad arc starter board. This is a minor repair and will fix the lack of high frequency starting on these units. As Andy mentioned there was a vendor issue with the arc starting PCB capacitor.

The poor aluminum bead appearance can be caused by many things. However, if a Syncrowave machine is yielding the type bead you are looking for and the Dynasty does not there is a reason for it. The Dynasty's very intense hard driving arc can cause filler rods with high silicon content to float the silicon to the bead surface. This is why 5356 filler typically produces a cleaner bead than does 4043, 4047, or 4145. The last three filler alloys are of high silicon content compared to the 5356. This "grainy" or "dirty" bead appearance is amplified with lower quality fillers. Crown alloys and Alcotec are premium fillers that I use and have found to produce little if any silicon grain on the bead surface.

A good base metal cleaning with an aluminum etching compound like Protek Alumi-Clean is helpful in eliminating "dirty" beads. Lightly rubbing the filler rod with 3M Scotchbrite followed by an acetone wipe will complete the cleaning process prior to welding. A properly sharpened ceriated or lanthanated alloy tungsten is the key to a good AC weld with the Dynasty inverters. I have found that with clean 4043 filler rod and correctly etched base metal premium quality shiny beads with nice color match are achievable with practice.

A good starting point for a fillet weld is argon shielding gas at 17CFH, 68% EN balance, and 110HZ arc frequency. Set maximum machine amperage based on your material thickness . Check the weld bead perimeter for the white area showing the arc cleaning action. If this area is larger than 1/8", then adjust the EN balance up in 2% increments until the white area is close to the 1/8" width. If the bead begins to become prickly or the white perimeter disappears, lower the EN balance accordingly.

The Dynasty settings can be adjusted to simulate a typical Syncrowave arc if all else fails to produce the desired weld beads. A 65% EN balance with a 60HZ arc frequency is a good starting point.

If you are welding an alloy such as a 3000 series that allows for 1100 series filler, then do give it a try. You will be absolutely amazed with its appearance. However, don't use this filler unless it is a recommended filler alloy for the base metal or metals you are welding. It is 99% commercially pure aluminum.

The Dynasty start parameters can be adjusted to give a desired arc start for a particular application. The factory settings work well for 3/32" & 1/16" ceriated/lanthanated tungstens. These settings include start polarity, start amperage, and start amperage/polarity time. Should these parmaters become mal-adjusted for any reason a factory default will return the machine to its factory settings.

There are most certainly more details involved in welding with the Dynasty inverters. I hope this information is helpful in achieving the desired results. These machines are not Syncrowaves and not designed to weld like them. However, over time familiarity and experience with the Dynasty will prevail. The Dynasty series machines are among my favorite GTAW machines.
HAWK,
Thank you for taking the time to post this. You have a gift for insightful as well as informative posts and your technical knowledge and field expertise are a real asset to this (and other) boards.

[unixadm]

HAWK,
Thank you for taking the time to post this. You have a gift for insightful as well as informative posts and your technical knowledge and field expertise are a real asset to this (and other) boards.

I could not agree more. I'm going to use the tips from Hawk, with different filler and really try to get some good beads out of this machine. I probably jumped the gun as well - but then again I've really really really tried to just get one decent looking bead. There is so much more to welding than just joining two pieces of material - understanding the components of the material being welding along with the technology used to weld it is really key. I'm really glad there are forums like this with true experts posting and contributing. Without it a lot of us newer guys would be lost as I don't work in a shop to learn from someone else.

[classj]

Nice post Hawk!! I printed that one out and am going to put in on the welding cart with my dyn 200. Its one thing trying to learn to weld aluminum and trying to learn how to set up the machine. It is so much easier when the machine is set up and you just have to work on technique.

I compare this to auto body refinishing. Hand someone a loaded spray gun that is all set up and dialed in, and they can learn the motions without having to worry about the details.

Give them a spray gun and a can of paint. And try to teach them to mix the paint correctly, and set up the gun, you will be there a while.

[SBG]

Hawk,
Thanks for the informative post. Your pictures speak for themselves.
I am inspired.

[HAWK]

I figure in the #63 pound class I want at least 250 amps 60% dutycyle. :p
http://www.thermadyne.com/uplFiles/litLibrary/thermalarc%5C84_2021_18.pdf
Nice machine on AC, but I have a real problem finding a TA TIG with a DC arc that could be described as anything other than mushy when put to the test side by side with the Maxstar or Dynasty Series from Miller.

[HAWK]

Great Info from Hawk.
I just moved up to a Dynasty 200DX from a SD 180.
Is there something like the Welding Calculator.That would have the starting points for the Dynasty settings?Info like Hawk suggest in ajusting the EN balance is great for the weekend welder like myself.
I am still in the dark on what some of the settings are for and how adjusting them changes the weld.


To my knowledge nothing exists on exactly how to set up the Dynasty on every setting. The functions are not synergic in the matter of one setting changes all others. However, changing one parameter will affect how the other settings need to be altered. It is such a versatile machine that can be set up to weld anything from thick to thin, oxidized to anodized, and most all base metals that it would be difficult to describe every setting for every application. If you want to give me some specific applications including material, thickness, overall weldment area, do you want pulse on/off, type of joint, type of filler, etc, then I will be glad to give you some starting points to work from.

It is really more of experience in learning what each function does and how it affects the other functions. With this knowledge you can set the machine to do anything you want it to do within its amperage range. I have used the D200 to weld 3/4" aluminum plate with near full penetration in a single pass using UHP Helium shielding gas, DCSP, and the proper combination of tungsten size/type, shielding cup, and gas flow. It is an awesome machine.

[precisionworks]

Hawk - You nailed it. The "secret" to heavy section aluminum GTAW is the shielding gas. "...I have used the D200 to weld 3/4" aluminum plate with near full penetration in a single pass using UHP Helium shielding gas..."

Anyone who runs a 200 amp inverter on aluminum WITHOUT Helium is not realizing the full potential of these machines. IMO, 200 amps + Helium welds faster, with more penetration (and with beautiful control) than 250 amps + Argon. I mentioned on another board that 1/2" aluminum is easily done with these machines using Helium for shielding, but people insist that the only way to weld heavy plate is with a 300 amp machine. BALONEY! A 200 amp inverter with Helium behaves like a much larger machine.

For the $5500 that Miller wants for a D300, you can buy a pair of 200 amp inverters (one for each end of the shop, so you don't spend too much time or energy dragging that 75# cart back & forth :D )

[KB Fabrications]

Anyone who runs a 200 amp inverter on aluminum WITHOUT Helium is not realizing the full potential of these machines. IMO, 200 amps + Helium welds faster, with more penetration (and with beautiful control) than 250 amps + Argon. I mentioned on another board that 1/2" aluminum is easily done with these machines using Helium for shielding, but people insist that the only way to weld heavy plate is with a 300 amp machine. BALONEY! A 200 amp inverter with Helium behaves like a much larger machine.
I have a question regarding this statement. If all this is true and these 200 amp inverters can take it (along with their 20% duty cycle at 200 amps), why then are they not advertised as such. I'm not trying to challenge your knowledge or say that THE way to weld heavy plate is with a 300+ amp machine, I just wonder why no one is marketing these machines to this potential that you speak of.

[precisionworks]

KB - Can't speak for anyone else, but the HTP Invertig 201 is rated 35% @ 200 amps, 60% @160 amps. As I've never hit the duty cycle, the rating IMO is conservative. By how much, who knows.

Heavy stainless plate is where the weld heat becomes intense, so much so that I use MIG gloves on both hands and a reflector pad on the left hand. I run out of endurance before the machine runs out of duty cycle.

Heavy aluminum repairs aren't so annoying, aluminum seems to lose heat about as quickly as the arc puts heat in, so I'll run a full filler rod, arc off to grab another rod, and arc on to continue. So the machine gets to rest for ten seconds every two minutes :D

Would I buy a 300 amp inverter? I would if anything ever came in the shop that the 201 couldn't handle. And with the Spoolmatic 30A (and a 302 amp engine-drive) it's hard to envision anyjob that can't get done either TIG or MIG.

[SMTatham]

I have a question regarding this statement. If all this is true and these 200 amp inverters can take it (along with their 20% duty cycle at 200 amps), why then are they not advertised as such. I'm not trying to challenge your knowledge or say that THE way to weld heavy plate is with a 300+ amp machine, I just wonder why no one is marketing these machines to this potential that you speak of.
I fell that the situation with duty cycle and rating is like so many other things in our whiny, litigous society................."but you SAID it would do"..........and then...................."my lawyer will be"..............oh ya. Manufacturers are just VERY gunshy about over stating the virtues or understating the vices of any product these days.

[unixadm]

I did some additional testing with my Dynasty 200DX using 5356 filler. Scotch brite, acetone wipe, dedicated stainless brush on the coupons I'm welding on. The results were MUCH better - very acceptable welds with this filler. I'm running 110hz, 72 balance and about 114 amps on 1/8" 6061. My filler was 3/32 5356. I think part of the issue is for some of us 'new' guys is that we're welding on smaller pieces of material just to get some practice in. With smaller coupons, the part heats up very quickly and thus you must significantly decrease the amperage on the same part after welding for only a few seconds. If you don't, the weld pool will get that grainy look due to too much heat being put into the weld. Personally, I just need more practice. I tried welding on a larger piece of aluminum with better results as the heat had somewhere else to go and I didn't have to get as far off the pedal.

[HAWK]

I have plenty of work a 200 amp inverter will not handle. The concept of input wattage is what is important when working with thick large weldments. An example is 3/8" and larger copper fillets. Even though helium is the recommended gas for TIG welding of deoxidized copper 200 amps DC just won't get the job done even with 500 degree preheat. It's a lost cause with a 200 amp inverter.

I TIG large aluminum dock plates and similar weldments in the 40+ square total area. This large surface area of 3/8" aluminum really sinks the heat. When the base material is still dirty after etchng a 5/32" tungsten with a hard hot start is often required to run a low enough EN balance to make a good weld w/o rapid tungsten erosion. For this type work I use a 75% HE/25%AR blend shielding gas and 275+ amps with 5/32" 4043 and multiple passes. A 250-300 degree interpass temperature w oxide inclusions are eliminated.

These are just one example for DC and one for AC on where a 200 amp machine will just get you in trouble.

[HAWK]

Precisionworks,

I respect your use of a spoolgun for thicker weldments. I did this for several years, but sold my 30A and have gone strictly to the GTAW process for aluminum. I even used an XR controller with the EDGE gun for a while with 1/16" wire. I simply prefer the TIG process. It is slower and cost more in labor hours. It is just my personal preference.

For customers who do not want to pay for TIG I gladly send them to my friend and competitor. He reciprocates and sends plenty of TIG work my way. He also sends me a good amount of local utility board natural gas line work. TIG is an option, but the 6010 is king of the hill for getting these 1-24" lines in place.

[Blown S-10]

"if" i had to pay for a hf board. how much would it cost ?

[precisionworks]

Hawk - Please don't misunderstand my intentions, GTAW is alway my first choice whenever the situation allows. It fits my welding style (methodical & obsessive/compulsive :D ) and it produces more billable arc-hours.

The Spoolmatic's territory is welding that shouldn't be attempted with GTAW - which is to say dirty, difficult or impossible to clean, deep cracks that are impossible to get both the tungsten & the filler into, etc. The Spoolmatic, IMO, is a supplement to GTAW, not a substitute for it.

I'm no great fan of Nasty Welding, but aluminum-bodied grain trucks are predominant in this farming area. I love aluminum truck frames & tanks - engineered to crack so we can fix 'em!!! For me, it's an additional source of income, something that no one else around here offers, unless you drive for thirty miles.

unixadm - If you overheat & the puddle looks grainy, try to reheat and hold over the puddle at a low temp, enough to keep the puddle warm & melted, not enough for it to be fluid. This often cleans the grainy appearance from the weld. Also works on contaminated castings.

[2JZfan]

Hope this is the right place to post this, I just found/joined this forum and this thread seemed like the hot Dynasty 200 spot at the moment...

I currently have a Syncrowave 180SD but I have wanted a Dynasty 200 ever since seeing the demo at PRI a few years ago. This forum is the first place I have ever seen people say that the inverter welders are somehow *possibly* not as easy to use as the Syncrowave models (forgive me if I'm misunderstanding what I read). From the feature list and demonstrations I had seen on the 200, I previously took it to be "everything the 180SD is plus about a million other things". I don't get to weld enough to perform like a pro and I would hate to actually be producing worse results with the new machine. Is this a concern?

I'm also assuming (again, correct me if I'm wrong) that the differences would be almost exclusively on AC work and that DC would be very similar between the 180SD and Dynasty 200?

Also, regarding the 200's with bad boards, has this been redesigned or corrected completely at this point? Is there a safe range of serial numbers or production dates that I can check so that if I'm buying a new machine I don't have to worry about getting a "good" one versus a "bad" one?

Thanks,
Jeff

[Paul Seaman]

2JZfan:
Welcome aboard. The 200DX has an adjustable wave form, that the sync doesn't have and to a new operator it can be quite intimedating. When new your not always sure if it is the operator or machine adjustments that isn't set right. There are so many variables with the 200DX that it takes some time to develope and learn what each does. Also if someone is trying to learn with a machine that isn't working properly then they just don't know what is wrong and what is right. This is a great machine, I have had mine just about a year and it is amazing, my skill level isn't that of some of the other guys on this board. I do fairly nicely on steels and am working at every given chance to achieve quality on aluminum. Just not enough hours in my days.

Peace,

[TJS]

I took my 200DX into the place I got it from for the hard hot start problem. The person behind the counter was great. He explained the procedure on what will happen. I also wrote up a symptom document as well. He was appreciative of the document and also sympathized with me.
As for the HF board go, I am sure the vendors have databases where they keep track of their caps and or other products that will go into a machine. I am sure they know which serial numbers refrence to the so called bad caps. I am also sure miller has databases as well with what machine has what components in it.
I will post the results when I get the machine back.
Thanks.
T.J.

[2JZfan]

thanks for the responses guys!

TJ, you almost make it sound like this is still a hit or miss problem with getting a bad board on a dynasty? I've tried searching on here and I can't seem to find the right combo of keywords to shed more light on the specifics of this problem... I'm convinced that the 200DX is the machine for me, I'd just like to go into the sale armed with as much info as possible.

Thanks!
Jeff

[TJS]

Jeff,
Don't get me wrong. I had a 180SD machine for a year and then sold that and got the 200DX. The 200DX by far out performs the 180 and draws much less amps at the breaker as well. I love this machine and if I had to buy another one I would. I was just comenting on the vendors and manuf. knowing what machine has what in it that is all.
Thanks.
T.J.

[2JZfan]

TJ, I definitely wasn't trying to corner you or imply that you were bashing the 200... I've read almost nothing but good things about it on this forum and I'm completely convinced its the machine for me...

My question basically boils down to: "can I go into any Miller shop and buy/order one without worry, or do I need to be looking for a certain build date, serial number, etc. to make sure I'm not getting one of the rare problem units?"

[HAWK]

2JZfan,

You can purchase a new D200DX without worry. The arc starting issue was simpy a bad component on the arc starting PC board. This should be cleared up. Few units were affected and the problem is fixed. One of my 200 units had that problem and a new board with 30 minutes of time and it was back on the map performing like a champ.

[Blown S-10]

"if" i had to pay for a hf board. how much would it cost ?


if i had to pay to have it fixed, how much ?

[HAWK]

Blown S10,

Don't know but can check on the board price. Labor should be no more than 1 hour total to pull the wrapper, replace the board, and zip everything back up. That is assuming you know it is the board. This is very easy to isolate-maybe 5 minutes tops if you know what you are looking for. I don't have any pricing here, but will check tomorrow.

Sorry for missing your first post.

[HAWK]

Blown S10,

Sorry for the delay. I priced the arc starter board on the Dynasty 200DX. It lists for $311.00. However, you would get a discount depending on the dealer. Labor could stretch to 1 1/2 hours at the max.

On the other hand the majority of Dynasty 200 machines should be under warranty. It is my guess that if the warranty period is not expired by too long a time Miller will probably take care of it regardless.

[jpross1]

What are the symptions of a bad arc starting board? No H.F. or intermintent H.F. on arc starts?
My 200 DX sometimes has a rough time starting the arc and I have to short the tungsten to the work then lift it away before trying to start the arc. It seems to work but it is a mystery why this works.

[HAWK]

jpross1,

No arc start, but you should be able to scratch start as you are describing on the HF setting. If the board is bad you will have no arc start on AC or DC TIG. You may be experiencing a frosted tungsten or bad start parameters for your application. If you have HF on AC and not DC then that is another issue.

Let us know.

[teddisnoke]

Hawk- I'm glad I picked up on this thread. Mine has the exact problem described, and I'll be contacting my sales company I purchased from about the bad board. I just used it extensively (after having purchased it six or seven month's back) on my first chromoly rollcage retro-fit, and results were great, but I missed the HF start. Thanks for being so generous in your experiance.

[HAWK]

Great! I hope all gets fixed soon. Keep us posted.

[TJS]

ted,
I too was/am having arc start issues like you. Miller did put a HF board in my machine. However, when I got it home and reset it to factory default settings it did the same thing, no arc until you touch the tungsten to something. Then once I got it to go ,it would be fine as long as I restarted my weld before the post purge shut down. This got me thinking while the gas was still flowing the arc was able to start. So I then got into the pre-flow settings (factory set to .2 of a second). I incremented this to .5, .7, and then 1.5 seconds. Anything below 1.5 seconds pre-flow I get the same no start condition. So now I just keep it on 1.5 second pre-flow and it has started 100% of the time all the time. However, this is a little discouraging cause when you set it back to factory default settings it will do the no start condition again. I still do not think this is normal for something not to work properly that has been set as default from the factory. I just have to wait 1.5 seconds then the arc will start.
T.J.

[dandimand]

If i might make a suggestion i always use my post flow for starting . i hit the foot pedal with my torch away from the work then move torch to work and then start welding . this is just the way ive always done things as i hate waiting for the preflow then the weld starts with the post flow still going it works much better i find and it is immediate I took the post flow down to zero on my dynasty for this reason and have been much happier . I usally have my post flow set to around 10 seconds so as not to contaminate my tung or to give extra gas shielding at ends of welds particularrly on stainless . ps i mean i just hit the foot pedal to get gas flowing then let it off then hit it again when im close to my work . it can be a bit of a pain if you use a hand control though .basically its like double clutching the old time truck drivers will know what i mean about this lol. :p

[Springbox]

Last year we reported that our 300DX was suffering from starting problems - weak HF etc and we were not alone.

Well now it is weak & intermittent HF, Lift start sometimes works but other times just nothing or starts on full current (which is interesting) ! The unit also now just ignores "reset to factory" instructions (no lock-outs active).

Enough is enough - great welder but it is not right. Impressively, as soon as we said "300DX" and "starting problem" to Miller here in the UK they faxed us a warranty claim form.

Apparently Miller has almost perfected the new board to resolve all these issues.

We will let you know how we get on....

Springbox

[3faze]

Wow that post helped my out soo much, I have the problem with the silicone rising to the surface. I can't remember what alloy of rod I bought when I got my dynasty 200dx because I just asked for a general use rod but I plan to get some of this 5356 along with some acetone. I already use a wire brush to clean the base metal along with 3m scotchbrite. So you think that if I switch to 5356 filler metal and wipe my filler metal and base metal with acetone this should eliminate my problem? I always thought that those grains were contamination. Currently I am using 2% thoriated tungsten that came with the torch, will I see a big improvement if I switch to 2% ceriated? Should I switch to ceriated?

I wish I could weld an aluminium fillet weld like you could Hawk, when I weld up a fillet weld I always end up putting down big globs of filler metal when I am trying to join the two puddles at the start of the weld. Then when i do form a puddle it won't move, I move the torch but for some reason the puddle will not move. The only way to get it to move is to give it tons of heat which just creats a massive puddle and the weld always ends up being very concave and I usually end up with extreme undercut. I know my machine setting are good because I checked them with some other guys on this board the only thing lacking is the technique :(

Any help or advice would be great, if anyone knows of a book or website that would help me please tell me. I already have millers tig welding books and literature, hobarts tig welding book, the essentials of welding and finches book. Any tips or hints that would speed up the learning curve would be great.

I would also like to remove any doubts about the dynasty even thought I may not be as good as some of the other guys at tig welding I am deffinatly able to notice a difference between the dynasty and the syncrwave series ( no offence to anbody with a syncrowave because they are great machines to ) but the dynasty is at the top of my list and well worth the money.

Thanks everybody

[pgk]

3faze,

Check out this link. I hope this works it's kinda cool.
http://www.putfile.com/scott1
Click on aluminun56 and aluminum3.

Pete

[3faze]

Anybody else got any advice or tips??

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[3faze]

The filler metal I got was 4043 so I will have to go and get some 5356 Anybody got and drills or ways I could practice??

[dandimand]

4043 should work fine use the lang tung as the ceriated i found is crap on aluminum make sure your grinding a small flat on end of your tung make sure rod and base metal is clean etc.. and make sure your using a foot pedal some guys dont understand the importance on aluminum of having a foot pedal. for alum i think that a #5 cup may be to small go to a #6 .if your getting the little gold specs in your weld that is silicon and usually happens from a few things i have found . either crappy base metal dirty base metal overheating the weld puddle insufficient gas coverage etc... most times its overheating base metal i find that does this and the reason is either machine settings are wrong and not enough cleaning or the film on metal has not been removed or dirty filler metal all these will cause it .. my suggestion is to go find a competent tig weldor to teach you it will save you alot of grief.

[2JZfan]

any more info on grinding the end of the tip to a flat? I have read this in several places, but I don't understand exactly how to do this? It seems like if your tip is ground across itself that you would have arc wandering issues just like if you ground the angle on the tungsten from the side vs. straight on. Is that not the case with A/C or something? also, do you grind the end flat first, then go back and do the taper or vice versa? When i've tried to do the flat last it leaves a slight "overhang" hanging out over the taper that looked kinda crappy so I just kept using a normal point. With the inverter and the lanthanated tungsten (1.5%) I haven't really had much balling up even when starting with a sharp point. That's only at about 130A though.

Thanks,
Jeff