New Truck Rack design

[dabeldesign]

I just finished this new rack design for late model Chevy's and eventually other trucks. I kept the design simple and somewhat lightweight so that it can ship UPS. (I'm going to try and start selling these but that's not why i'm posting it here:))
The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling.
Paint is done by the advice of Dabar; rustoleum rusty metal primer and gloss black thinned 20% or so and applied with an HVLP spraygun. Worked great, thanks Dabar!

If there's any obvious design flaws, point them out! (no screen is not one of them..that's intentional;))

[TimS]

This is probably overly fussy, but I'd rather see the side posts carried higher, so the crossbar can weld directly to them. This keeps fewer parts and welds involved in the critical structure. The side post extension, which would then be non-structural, could be welded on later. You've used a gusset, so it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but since you asked...

Tim

[dabeldesign]

This is probably overly fussy, but I'd rather see the side posts carried higher, so the crossbar can weld directly to them. This keeps fewer parts and welds involved in the critical structure. The side post extension, which would then be non-structural, could be welded on later. You've used a gusset, so it probably doesn't make a whole lot of difference, but since you asked...

Tim

Noted...Anyone else?:D

[MMW]

A few more tie down loops. I use chain links on the ones I make. Looks nice.

[dabeldesign]

Chain links are not a bad idea. I thought about using D-rings but that is a little over the top. I've only ever used hooks like this. I didn't put much thought into the height and placement of the hooks though but that seems to work.

[dabar39]

Are you using anything for a buffer in between the rack and the bed rail? I cut out pieces of rubber matting and sandwich in between to keep rubbing the paint off of the bed rail. Glad you liked the idea of Rust-O-Leum over some of the higher priced options, but if you plan on doing them in a production type of setting you may want to consider getting into powder coating, It's not as expensive as you might think. Dave

[Craig in Denver]

It's a nice simple design and would last me forever. :)

Edit: Oops, reread your post. Opinion withdrawn. :)

[DSW]

For me the top extensions are too short. Looks to be only 3-4" max. I actually put lumber on my racks and that's only 2-3 2x's stacked. Nit picking I know.

Looks very nice BTW. Does it fit in an acceptable size box for UPS or FedEx shipping? I forget the max sizes they accept. You may be able to make the design a breakdown design if the horizontal bar could slide down over the vertical supports and get secured with a bolt. Just a thought for decreasing shipping costs and box costs. I would also think about powercoating the frame as suggested above.

[dabeldesign]

Are you using anything for a buffer in between the rack and the bed rail? I cut out pieces of rubber matting and sandwich in between to keep rubbing the paint off of the bed rail. Glad you liked the idea of Rust-O-Leum over some of the higher priced options, but if you plan on doing them in a production type of setting you may want to consider getting into powder coating, It's not as expensive as you might think. Dave

thanks for the advice. I don't think I'll really be going into any production. This is just a design that can be manufactured quickly and somewhat cost-effectively. I've sold some simmilar models to people who asked me to build them but I'm such a tiny shop there is no way for me to do anything on a big scale.
Oh and about the "buffer" I still need to pick up some rubber matting. Any good sources for something like that besides McMaster-Carr or the obvious Home Depot?

[dabeldesign]

It's a nice simple design and would last me forever. :)

Edit: Oops, reread your post. Opinion withdrawn. :)

Which part? I'm open to critique ;)

[dabeldesign]

For me the top extensions are too short. Looks to be only 3-4" max. I actually put lumber on my racks and that's only 2-3 2x's stacked. Nit picking I know.

Looks very nice BTW. Does it fit in an acceptable size box for UPS or FedEx shipping? I forget the max sizes they accept. You may be able to make the design a breakdown design if the horizontal bar could slide down over the vertical supports and get secured with a bolt. Just a thought for decreasing shipping costs and box costs. I would also think about powercoating the frame as suggested above.

The height of the top is a bit of a compromise between looks and functionality. It still works good in my opinion but for just a work truck for a contractor, a little taller would probably be better.
As far as shipping goes, it just fall under the 130" max (length+girth) for UPS. I wouldn't buy it If I lived across the country though; the shipping is not cheap. A short hop across states might be worth it if this is just what the customer is looking for.


EDIT: I guess I should have done multi-quotes...

[tasslehawf]

The rack itself may be too short. I crazily carry 20' pieces a lot on top of my rack and at this height the metal would probably whack the roof if I went over a bump. Even though it doesn't look as good, the top of my racks are ~ 7-8" above the roof.

Also it might be nice to have a full cleat in the middle and some other tie down point at the base.

Have you noticed any whistling?

My rack (I didn't make it):

http://lh3.ggpht.com/tasslehawf/SDWhK5Xac5I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5NhA3wZ8D7I/IMG_1168.JPG?imgmax=640

[Craig in Denver]

"The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling."

I looked at the pics and missed this part. :rolleyes:

So, I said the bolt was too close to the pocket and would pull out if someone hit the brakes with the rack loaded heavily. If you sold one, some redneck would load 'er up. I also said "I'm just a hobby guy and don't like to judge the work of others, but you asked." :o

So my critique was based on my inattention. :eek:

[dabeldesign]

The rack itself may be too short. I crazily carry 20' pieces a lot on top of my rack and at this height the metal would probably whack the roof if I went over a bump. Even though it doesn't look as good, the top of my racks are ~ 7-8" above the roof.

Also it might be nice to have a full cleat in the middle and some other tie down point at the base.

Have you noticed any whistling?

My rack (I didn't make it):

http://lh3.ggpht.com/tasslehawf/SDWhK5Xac5I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5NhA3wZ8D7I/IMG_1168.JPG?imgmax=640

with 20' sticks of steel there would definitely be a problem with this rack. I only built the front part that protects the cab, not the full rack like you have so tying things down is a bit different.
More tie down points will definitely go in the revised design. Thanks for the advice.

Oh and no whistling :D

[dabeldesign]

"The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling."

I looked at the pics and missed this part. :rolleyes:

So, I said the bolt was too close to the pocket and would pull out if someone hit the brakes with the rack loaded heavily. If you sold one, some redneck would load 'er up. I also said "I'm just a hobby guy and don't like to judge the work of others, but you asked." :o

So my critique was based on my inattention. :eek:

That was and still is a bit of a concern. I left enough room on the mounting brackets to drill a hole and mount through the bedrail at another point but this way was surprisingly strong.
I agree with you completely though that some idiot would overload this thing and expect me to fix it:rolleyes:
Thanks for the advice Craig

[tasslehawf]

with 20' sticks of steel there would definitely be a problem with this rack. I only built the front part that protects the cab, not the full rack like you have so tying things down is a bit different.
More tie down points will definitely go in the revised design. Thanks for the advice.

Oh and no whistling :D

Yeah, I wasn't sure if your rack was just one or two. Just one it makes more sense.

[lanceman73]

You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.

[dabar39]

You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.

That is some great advice right there! Smart thinkin'

[dabeldesign]

You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.

I absolutely agree! I need to figure out what the weight limit should be exactly and maybe, if I really get into selling these, I can stamp the max weight into the rack.

Thanks for all the advice and input guys! It's interesting to see other people's views and knowledge from around the nation (and maybe further) applied to my project. :)

[DSW]

Oh and about the "buffer" I still need to pick up some rubber matting. Any good sources for something like that besides McMaster-Carr or the obvious Home Depot?

I looked for rubber material to bufer my rack that I am working on. After a bit of thinking on where I could get some medium sized pieces I remembered some PVC shower liner that I have left over from a job. Lowes and HD sell it by the foot as well as in sheets in the plumbing dept. If you know a tile guy, you might be able to grab some of his scraps cheap.

[dabeldesign]

I looked for rubber material to bufer my rack that I am working on. After a bit of thinking on where I could get some medium sized pieces I remembered some PVC shower liner that I have left over from a job. Lowes and HD sell it by the foot as well as in sheets in the plumbing dept. If you know a tile guy, you might be able to grab some of his scraps cheap.

I will check that out. Thanks DSW!

[fun4now]

Think of liability
the first thing i thought when i was it was that hook is right at eye hight. you might think of making it a U shape on the end. maybe stupid idea, but lots of stupid people out there getting rich suing hard working people that didn't make some thing stupid proof.;) just a little food for thought.

[Big_Eddy]

What's with the sides and front on the mounting flange? I don't see the reason for those pieces, but I sure see a nice spot for leaves, needles and other crud to collect. Obviously you put them on for a reason - please enlighten me. If it is for stiffening - why not just use a heavier plate?

[dabeldesign]

What's with the sides and front on the mounting flange? I don't see the reason for those pieces, but I sure see a nice spot for leaves, needles and other crud to collect. Obviously you put them on for a reason - please enlighten me. If it is for stiffening - why not just use a heavier plate?

Yes it is for stiffening. Also, I originally thought I could put another hook on that plate but since I decided to make it out of 1/8" plate, I thought it might be a little weak. I could always make it out of heavier plate but I thought this way would be easier to form and just as stiff (with the gusset) and lightweight.
I do see your point about leaves and junk collecting in there. I didn't think so much about that as I did about water collecting there, which is why I left a small opening at the back corner.
All very good points though. Thanks for the input!

[STRENGTH AND POWER]

home depot sells a 3" S hook that is about 1/4"dia. A quick slice with a cut-off wheel and you have 2 u shaped loops for tie downs. they cost a whopping .98 . You can't make them for less. Plenty strong.

[dabeldesign]

home depot sells a 3" S hook that is about 1/4"dia. A quick slice with a cut-off wheel and you have 2 u shaped loops for tie downs. they cost a whopping .98 . You can't make them for less. Plenty strong.

That's not a bad idea but all the ones I have ever seen are galvanized or plated. I would rather not spend the time sanding/grinding that off and/or breathing it while welding.
I just bought a 20' stick of 1/2" rod for a few bucks (can't remember exact price) and I have a simple jig on my welding table to bend the hook shape.

[pfitz]

I like the simplicity of your design. I just can't figure out why you didn't form your metal around the bottom post? Here in Canada, the snow and salt would sit in there and rust it quick! I have found one thing with truck racks, you can't put enough tie down points on them!LOL What I do is go to my local Parts for Trucks every 6 months or so and get all the cut chain links from when they sell pieces of chain. I usually get about 100 links, and a few minutes with a vice and a big hammer makes them straight and the cut gets filled when you weld it on anyway. The best part is they are Free!