View Full Version : Shop made TIG water cooler ideas?
Grigg
05-28-2007, 09:23 AM
I am considering building my own cooler, as I think I already have most of the parts laying around.
I have a general idea on how they work, but have never actually used one, or taken one apart to see how they function or are put together.
What are some good sites for schematics, tips, and ideas for making my own?
Any thoughts on making my own instead of a store bought one?
Thanks,
Grigg
Sundown
05-28-2007, 11:51 AM
Check your "New Dynasty 200DX, few quick ???" Post Reply #10:)
Grigg
05-28-2007, 02:24 PM
Here is a picture of the pumps I have.
One really old one, and a new stainless one.
I may be looking for a new style motor to use with the stainless pump.
I also have a bunch of old stainless counter tops to cut up for sheet stock.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2448670310080251109bApoMl
What all goes into making a cooler?
Should there be any pressure in the return line from the torch?
Or should the pressure only be in the line going to the torch?
If only in the line going to the torch then I would have to adjust the bypass valve on the pump for 50 psi, with a gage between pump and torch pressure line. My new Procon stainless pump has 200psi etched on it, can this be backed off sufficiently, or do I need a weaker spring?
If I should have pressure in the return line I think I would install a pressure gage and then a needle valve just before it dumps in to the radiator. The needle valve would be used as an adjustable restriction to vary flow and therefore set pressure. I am thinking this is not how it is done though?
Grigg
Sundown
05-28-2007, 06:50 PM
Here is a picture of the pumps I have.
One really old one, and a new stainless one.
I may be looking for a new style motor to use with the stainless pump.
The pump I used was brass and setup for 100 psi, under the relief valve (the acorn nut) is a slotted screw (at least on mine) that I used to set the output pressure to 40-50 psi (I usually run about 45 psi). There are so many different setups with the procon pumps it's hard to say what you have.
I also have a bunch of old stainless counter tops to cut up for sheet stock.
That should make a great box.
What all goes into making a cooler?
Basicly, a pump, motor to drive it, a tank to hold the water, water connections from Western fittings avail from any LWS, and a radiator if you want it (if you tank is more than 3 gallons you can get by without it I think). In addition I have a psi guage on the output side of the pump, a temp guage in the fill cap, a on/off switch with a red light tied in to it.
Should there be any pressure in the return line from the torch? just let No, it dump back into the tank.
Or should the pressure only be in the line going to the torch? Yes
If only in the line going to the torch then I would have to adjust the bypass valve on the pump for 50 psi, with a gage between pump and torch pressure line. My new Procon stainless pump has 200psi etched on it, can this be backed off sufficiently, or do I need a weaker spring?
You can try a weaker spring or just rig up a adjustable relief valve after the output side of the pump that dumps excess pressure back to the tank.
If I should have pressure in the return line I think I would install a pressure gage and then a needle valve just before it dumps in to the radiator. The needle valve would be used as an adjustable restriction to vary flow and therefore set pressure. I am thinking this is not how it is done though?
Don't worry about the return line pressure, just route it back to the tank, or the radiator if you install one. The adobe file I sent you should anwser any questions you might have, if not just email me.
Grigg
Scott T
05-28-2007, 07:03 PM
Grigg you should'nt have any probs getting your pump down under 50 PSI, the one I used said 175 and I have mine set at 40 and it will still go lower.
Grigg
05-28-2007, 07:43 PM
Check this out!
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2780330730080251109BLBavT
I just pulled it from the scrap pile, and there is a second one if I need it.
I am going to make an upright cooler that will fit on a cart like a second gas cylinder.
It is about 6.75" diameter. What diameter will the electric motor and Procon pump fit in?
I am envisioning stacking a pump vertically on top of the tank. On the very top will be a pressure gage, a temp gage, water connections, a fill cap with vent, and a switch.
I figure that the tank is big enough I don't need a radiator, but if I do I can find a way to make a round one, with a fan under or over it, placed above the motor and under the gages.
Now I need to find a motor with the v-band clamp and a drive coupling. Gages, fittings and a switch are no problem. Then when I get my new welder, hopefully tomorrow, I can assemble the cooler.
Grigg
Sundown
05-29-2007, 08:35 AM
That sounds cool, and now I know why you asked about the motor dia. make sure to make some vents to keep the motor cool. Looking forward to see the finished cooler.
Grigg
05-30-2007, 09:31 PM
Anyone have pictures of their home made cooler?
I would like to see more before I start on mine. I have a pretty firm picture of it in my head, and think I have all the details worked out. However I am still looking for good ideas.
Any suggestions on a small, about 1" to 1.5" fill neck and cap? I want something professional looking, perhaps like a 1/2 or 2/3 size radiator neck and cap? I have seen some cute little radiator caps on new import cars, but the ones i have seen have plastic necks, I want something I can work with, and plastic is not high on that list.
Thanks,
Grigg
Tailshaft56
05-31-2007, 08:05 PM
It just occured to me that a used freon jug might make a good tank for an upright setup. If you slice a section off lengthwise it could be used in the horizontal position.
Grigg
05-31-2007, 09:40 PM
Is a freon jug stainless? I think it is pretty much required that the tank be stainless so as to not rust and clog the torch?
The fire extinguisher I have to use for my tank is 7" diameter and holds 2.5 gallons, or probably more like 3 if you fill it all the way. When it was an extinguisher it was 2.5 gallons of water and some air space for the propellant, compressed air at 100PSI.
My cooler should be about the same size as an 80cf argon tank, perhaps a tad taller.
Grigg
Slash
06-02-2007, 12:04 AM
The Stainless Steel tanks used for Pepsi/Coke fountain machines make great TIG cooler tanks.
Tailshaft56
06-04-2007, 08:31 PM
Is a freon jug stainless? I think it is pretty much required that the tank be stainless so as to not rust and clog the torch?
The fire extinguisher I have to use for my tank is 7" diameter and holds 2.5 gallons, or probably more like 3 if you fill it all the way. When it was an extinguisher it was 2.5 gallons of water and some air space for the propellant, compressed air at 100PSI.
My cooler should be about the same size as an 80cf argon tank, perhaps a tad taller.
Grigg
I was just think of that today. Your Idea is much better. The most interesting would be an aluminum pony keg complete with a fake spigot or tapper. LOL
dayve
06-06-2007, 03:22 PM
The fire extinguisher I have to use for my tank is 7" diameter and holds 2.5 gallons, or probably more like 3 if you fill it all the way. When it was an extinguisher it was 2.5 gallons of water and some air space for the propellant, compressed air at 100PSI.
If you're not quite sure if you can get by without a radiator, or if you just don't want one, maybe you could do some passive cooling by adding some fins. I'm thinking something like this: http://www.xoxide.com/zalman-reserator-1-v2.html
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